S/S 2023 Non-Binary Collection

Summary

“127 as a collection draws inspiration from a specific upbringing in the Western, Equestrian, and Indigenous communities in Southern Alberta. It utilizes 5 specific equine muses, with it’s main muse, Calian, bringing in the broad themes of resilience and versatility.”

Jess Fox, 2022

Design Style

Blending traditional westernwear garments with modern techwear updates; 127 is a fusion of styles. Curating outfits that can be mixed together to suit numerous occasions. Whether the wearer is working in the sun, rain, and dust of the farm, or walking the metropolitan streets, 127 has them covered.

127 incorporates garments and modularity to suit numerous seasons and weather types. Utilizing durable fabrics such as heavy-duty denim, duck canvas, and waterproof waxed canvas, this collection is suitable for protecting the wearer in a traditional westernwear work setting. In contrast, 127 also utilizes breathable fabrics such as cotton jersey, bamboo rib knits, and medium-weight cotton denim; bringing comfort to the wearer in casual settings.

Target Market

127’s main consumer base revolves around the most frequently targeted age group of 25 – 45 year old consumers, these individuals statistically represent a large number of shoppers, especially in the equestrian industry where items are often purchased in a rider’s youth, and utilized for years upon years.

The target market is largely based out of North America, with a few outliers present, and a focus has been placed on creating designs stemming from Canada’s history of westernwear, and its proposed future.

Prioritizing the garment design and function, 127 places the role of gender in a different space. Each garment is designed to suit numerous positions on the spectrum of gender, and all garments are able to be sized up or down to fit various body types. The purpose of this decision is to include both stereotypical masculine and feminine design traits within the collection. By not focusing on one perceived gender, 127 is able to create pieces that can be layered together, or worn separately, to create a performance of gender that fits the individual wearer within the western scene.

127 was developed to be worn by real individuals during real daily practices. This includes equestrians, outdoor workers, and fashionistas alike. When designing the collection, Fox imagined both herself and those in her community; visualizing real-world bodies wearing the garments.

Conceptualization & Preliminary Designs

Inspirational Muses

By utilizing inspiration from five specific equine muses, colors, textures and styles were pulled to create the collection. The aforementioned muses are; Calian, Hiro-Kone, Shahin, Makani, & Buddy. Together their physical and emotional natures inspired the shapes and context of the collection. Attached to each muse is a specific history with designer Jess Fox, they each taught valuable lessons and created cherished memories. Through her continued interest in designing clothes inspired by the landscape of time, Fox used their shared past and exciting future of these equine souls as a driving muse for 127.

The name 127 itself comes from the main muse, Fox’s own horse Calian, whose story of resilience inspired the initial concept. During the summer of 2021, Fox rescued Calian from a history of neglect and abuse. He quickly became her muse down many avenues, including this very collection. The number 127 itself comes from the auction number that was left on his body for more than half a year. After he received proper care and attention he healed and this number became fully legible. As a symbolic and spiritual number, 127 connects itself to creativity and new beginnings, progression and moving forward, and achieving success and fulfillment. It is a number representing strength and adaptability moving forward. These are all attributes Calian himself has displayed, and as such the attributes Fox wished to portray through her work.

Shaping the Designs

Fox’s continued interest in the landscape of time shaped the inspirations and influences of 127. By honoring the past representation in the western equestrian community, including the important presence of indigenous cultures and their influence on the fashions of westernwear today, Fox generated a style that preserves the history of westernwear. Fox also utilizes elements from the present and perceived future; techwear and streetwear designs added in content such as color-blocking, urban fit technologies, and unique modularities or purposes.

Numerous creative exercises were used alongside extensive market research to create this lineup. Hours of reading, reporting, and researching were put into this collection, and the broad range of ideas shown within the above sketches showcases this. These sketches include inspiration from draping experiments, and sketch experiments such as rapid sketching and collaging. Over 100 looks were created leading up to the preliminary illustrations; these include garments with modularity, seasonal functions, techwear instruments, and avant-garde shapes.

The preliminary top 15 lineup was narrowed down to the final 8 illustrated looks. From these 8 proposed looks, 5 were selected through Fox’s own notes and industry professionals’ critiques. The final 5 looks; 16 garments, were further developed and designed until the collection’s last developmental phase: samples.

Developmental Stages & Samples

During the development stages, 127 garments were drafted by hand using basic womenswear blocks. These were altered significantly in order to accommodate broader shapes within the wearer’s body in order to align with the collection’s non-binary views. Upon completing the drafts, individual patterns were pulled for all 16 garments, and samples were made. Some garments required numerous samples and changes in order to get the correct design and body proportions that could suit a range of positions on the gender and body-size spectrums.

These samples were made out of standard cotton muslin, and critiqued and corrected by industry professionals. Fox further developed the collection and its garments in accordance with her own notes and that of her critics.

Final Garments

The final collection is showcased below, for an in-depth look at each look and their individual garments, details, and editorial shots click on the images below to be taken to their corresponding pages.